Hydroponic Information & Tips

Plants and Lighting

2009-09-26T06:34:00.000-04:00

Three factors must be considered for successful horticultural lighting: color, intensity, and duration of light. When these factors are properly balanced, artificial lights, such as fluorescent, Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium, can help yield spectacular gardens.

COLOR

The sun’s spectrum contains visible light in every color of the rainbow. Blue and violet rays appear at one end of the visible spectrum, at about a 380 nanometer wavelength, and red light appears at the other end of the spectrum, at about 760 nanometers. If all of the colors of the spectrum are absorbed by an object, it will appear black. If all of the colors are reflected by an object, it will appear white.

Plants appear green because they reflect green light, while absorbing the other colors of the spectrum. The green pigment in plants is chlorophyll, essential for photosynthesis. The green portion of the light spectrum is relatively unimportant to photosynthesis, since it is mostly reflected by the plant. Chlorophyll absorbs light energy from the blue and red portions of the spectrum to convert carbon dioxide and water into sugars to be used by the plant. Without red and blue light rays, the plant will weaken or die prematurely.

The orange-red portion of the light spectrum is very important to plant reproduction. Pigments called “photochromes” absorb the red and far red portions of the light spectrum. Photochromes regulate seed germination, root development, tuber and bulb formation, dormancy, flowering and fruit production. Therefore, the red portion of the light spectrum is essential to plant growth, particularly during the flowering, fruiting and reproductive stage.

Plants need light from the blue end of the spectrum as well. Blue light stimulates chlorophyll production more than any other color, promoting thick leaves, stocky stems and strong vegetative growth. Carotenoids, the yellow-orange pigment in plants, absorb blue light and control leaf fall and fruit ripening. Riboflavin, containing another pigment, absorbs violet light and influences “phototropism”, the movement of plant foliage in response to a light source.

“Positive tropism”, is the movement of plant foliage toward a light source. “Negative tropism” is the movement of plant foliage away from a light source. Positive tropism is greatest in the blue end of the spectrum at about 450 nanometers. At this level, plants lean toward the light, spreading their leaves out horizontally to absorb the most light possible. Lack of blue light will make plants tall and spindly, since the plants will S T-R-E-A-C-H out in search of blue rays. Adequate blue light helps ensure each plant’s natural shape and prevents “legginess”, or unnatural elongation of the stems.

Because of their color spectrums and wattage outputs, Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium lamps are the most popular artificial growing lights.

High Pressure Sodium lamps are strong in the orange and red spectrum bands. The HP sodium lamp emits an orange-like glow that is sometimes compared to that of the harvest sun. These colors promote flower production and stem elongation. When using an HP sodium lamp, flower production may increase by 20% or more. Unfortunately, HP sodium lamps lack in the blue portion of the spectrum. Conventional HP sodium lights should not be used alone since their lack of blue light will make plants tall and spindly. When used in a greenhouse setting, however, HP sodium lamps are all that are required for supplemental lighting, since sunlight provides all the blue light necessary.

Metal Halide lamps have a fairly balanced color spectrum, with a higher percentage of blue and violet light rays than High Pressure Sodium lamps. Therefore MH lamps are excellent during the vegetative growth stage. MH lamps help keep plants shorter and stockier, with more compact vegetation. Stockier plants are stronger, better able to resist disease, and generally more productive than spindly plants.

When clear Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium lamps are used together, a winning combination is achieved. Blue light in the Metal Halide promotes strong vegetative growth, and the red light in the High Pressure Sodium lamp promotes strong fruiting and flowering. Some growers like to use a carousel system, alternating MH and HPS lamps, to provide a balanced light spectrum during the plants complete growing cycle.

HID LIGHTING

Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium lamps belong to the HID family, or High Intensity Discharge. In HID lamps, light is produced by passing current through a vapor at relatively high pressure, normally 1 to 8 atmospheres. Fluorescent and Low Pressure Sodium lamps, on the other hand, produce light under low pressure conditions.

Lets look more closely at a Metal Halide lamp.

Metal Halide Lamps

The center of a Metal Halide lamp contains a quartz arc tube. Light is produced by arcing electricity through combined vapors of mercury and argon, with other metals, introduced into the arc tube as compounds of iodine: thorium iodide, sodium iodide and scandium iodide. Spring supports in the dome and neck of the outer bulb hold the arc tube in place. The outer bulb acts as a protective jacket. It protects the arc tube, while absorbing harmful ultraviolet radiation. If you spend a lot of time in the grow room, protective goggles that filter out UV are also recommended.

Phosphor coatings are also an option. Phosphor provides more diffuse light which is easier on the eyes. Plus, the phosphor coating tends to tip the color spectrum towards the red end of the spectrum, providing slightly more red light for fruiting and flowering. A phosphor coated bulb is recommended if a “single source” Metal Halide lamp is required.

High Pressure Sodium Lamps

High Pressure Sodium lamps are shaped differently than Metal Halide lamps. A ceramic arc tube contains sodium and mercury, with a little xenon gas for starting. The sodium discharge dominates the color, producing the orange-red light. Electricity passes through electrodes at the ends of the arc tubes. If the lamp is turned off or a power surge occurs, the gasses will need to cool three to 15 minutes before restarting is possible.

Son Agro is a special kind of HP sodium lamp, with a 30% increase in the blue end of the light spectrum. The Son Agro bulb also burns brighter than a regular 400-watt HP sodium lamp, and it is recommended if a “single source” HP sodium lamp is required in a grow room. Although Son Agro lamps do not come in 1,000-watt varieties, two 430-watt lamps are generally more desirable than one 1,000-watt regular HP sodium. The color spectrum will be more natural, and the light will be more evenly distributed throughout the grow room.

Ballasts

MH and HPS lamps both require special ballasts. Each ballast contains a transformer and a capacitor, and regulates the voltage for the lamp. Since most HID bulbs come in either 250, 400 or 1000-watt versions, make sure the ballast you use is designed for the proper lamp and wattage. Using the wrong ballast could result in a burned out lamp or worse!

Conversion bulbs are available for some metal halide ballasts. The bulb looks like a metal halide, but produces a light spectrum similar to a HP sodium lamp. The 360-watt conversion bulb works on a 400-watt metal halide ballast, and the 940-watt bulb works on a 1000-watt metal halide ballast. Although not as bright as regular HP sodium lamps, conversion bulbs are more economical than buying two complete systems.

LIGHT INTENSITY

Light intensity is dependent on two factors: the brightness of the lamp and the distance to the plant.

The brightness of a lamp is measured in lumens. One lumen is the amount of light emitted from one candle that falls on 1 square foot, one foot from the source. For example, a 1,000-watt standard metal halide emits 110,000 initial lumens, and a 1,000-watt HP Sodium lamp emits 140,000 initial lumens, measured one foot from the source.

The light intensity falls off exponentially the further the plant is from the light source, as shown by the “Light and Distance Chart”. Light intensity is calculated using the formula l = L/D2 or “light intensity equals initial lumens divided by distance squared. If a plant is two feet away from a light source, 1/4 of the initial lumens are available. At three feet, 1/9 of the lumens are available. And at four feet, only 1/16 of the initial lumens are available.

A light meter is a good way to test the light intensity in any part of the grow room. Simply point the meter toward the light source and take the reading. Most light meters measure in lumens, foot candles or miliwatts per-square-meter. The U.S. Department of Agriculture can provide data about specific light level requirements for various plants during different stages of their growth.

Generally speaking, HID lights should be placed as close to the growing tips of the plants as possible, without burning the leaves. Ideally, HID lamps should be hung about 12 to 18 inches above the garden. Tender clones, seedlings and transplants need more space, usually about 24 inches.

If the plants start to become tall and spindly, they are S-T-R-E-C-H-I-N-G for more light. Bring the light source closer to the plants. If the leaf tips become “sun bleached” or begin to curl, back them away from the light source.

Proper spacing is also important. Hundreds of seedlings can be huddled together under one HID lamp. But as the foliage begins to spread and grow, make sure that the leaves do not touch and shade each other. By altering the spacing every few days so that plants remain as close together as possible without actually touching, shade will be kept to a minimum and growth will be maximized.

High light intensity helps keep plants short and stocky, with smaller but denser and heavier leaves. The cuticle and cell walls are thicker, and the leaf stomata, through which transpiration of carbon dioxide, oxygen and water take place, are denser. These changes help make the plant more resistant to high temperatures, drought and infection.

Light Carts

To better utilize space during the propagation stage, light carts are sometimes used. Light carts make it possible to stack several trays of seedlings in a very small space.

Most light carts use fluorescent grow lamps instead of HID’s. Many fluorescent “grow lamps” have a balanced color spectrum, closely approximating natural sunlight, but their low lumen output make them impractical for growing plants with high light requirements.

Fluorescent lighting is excellent for rooting cuttings, however, since tender young cuttings and seedlings do not need as much intense light as more mature plants. Even so, the lamps should be kept as close to the young plants as possible, preferably within a few inches.

Although wide spectrum fluorescents are recommended, cool white fluorescents can also be used if necessary. Their strong blue light is good for initial growth, but their lack of illumination, particularly in the red part of the spectrum, slows down root development by a few days. For gardeners on a budget, using a fixture with one standard fluorescent bulb and one wide spectrum fluorescent bulb may be a good compromise.

Once the plants start to develop a good root structure, however, they should be moved under HID lighting.

Light Movers

To better utilize available space as the plants mature, track lighting may be used. The light is adjusted to the proper height above the plants, and the motor drive is started. The light moves along the full length of the track, providing even lighting to all of the plants in the row. Light movers can increase the amount of intense light plants receive by 25 to 35%, and the plants will receive light from more than one direction.

To further increase even light distribution, a smart box may also be used. When the light reaches the end of the track, the light will pause for 30 seconds so the plants on the ends of the row receive as much light as those in the middle.

Side Lighting

Side lighting can also be beneficial to plants. If a light is hung directly overhead, the upper leaves tend to shade the lower leaves. Eventually, the lower leaves will yellow and die.

To provide additional side lighting, some light movers have a T bar so that lamps can be hung on both sides of the row. The angle of carousel lights can also be adjusted so that more side lighting is available.

Low pressure sodium lamps may also be used for side lighting. The lamp is three feet long, and extremely energy efficient, producing 180 lumens per watt in the 180-watt size. Unfortunately, all of the light produced is in a very narrow color spectrum, almost entirely in the yellow-orange band. Furthermore, its low wattage rating severely limits its overall intensity, producing only about 32,000 initial lumens.

When used for side lighting, however, LPS lamps can be very useful. The lamps can be placed low to the ground and close to the plants, compensating for their lack of light intensity. Furthermore, since phototropism is initiated by violet light, their narrow color spectrum will help prevent the plants from leaning unnaturally toward the sides. Experiments at the USDA labs in Maryland have yielded promising results for LPS lamps when used as a supplement to full spectrum lighting.

Light Reflectors

Reflective light can also be used by plants. Chrome Mylar coating can be added to grow room walls, reflecting 95% of available light. Chrome Mylar helps eliminate shadow areas, and it is the most reflective sheet product available. White plastic sheeting is another alternative. It can be added to both the walls and floors, providing some reflective light to lower leaves.

A low cost alternative to sheet reflectors is flat white paint. Surprisingly, flat white paint is more reflective than a glossy finish, and almost as reflective as mylar.

LIGHT DURATION

Duration of light and dark periods, or photoperiodism, is also important to a plant’s growth and reproduction.

During the propagation stage, lights should be left on as long as possible, up to 24 hours per day. Strong initial growth will make the young plants healthier and more resistant to disease, ultimately providing better yields. As the plants begin to mature, however, light duration should gradually be reduced.

Most plants do well with fourteen to sixteen hours of light per day. In a greenhouse setting, supplemental lights can be used on cloudy days or to extend daylight hours in the winter. With supplemental lighting, plants can be kept actively growing all year long, making out of season fruits possible. Dormancy can be prevented in some crops, and winter fruiting can be induced by providing extra light in the fall.

Plants use periods of darkness, too. During dark periods, plants continue to take in oxygen and give off carbon dioxide in a process called respiration. During this time, the plant uses some of the energy that was stored as sugars during photosynthesis, producing proteins, hormones and other complex products. Therefore, lighting mature plants more than seventeen and a half hours per day will not increase production significantly, since photosynthesis will slow down after a certain number of hours. In fact, too many daylight hours can actually be counterproductive, delaying or preventing flowering in some crops.

Most plants are sensitive to day length. Some plants flower during the spring and summer, when days are longer than nights, and some flower in the autumn, when nights are longer than days. Therefore, plants are classified as short-day, long-day and day-neutral.

A hormone called “florigen” controls budding and flowering. Long day plants require about 14 to 18 hours of light to produce just the right amount of florigen to flower and reproduce. Short day plants require about 10 to 13 hours of light. If short day plants are exposed to too many hours of light, florigen can be destroyed, preventing blooming.

Short day plants include poinsettias, chrysanthemums, and gardenias. They require long nights in order to flower. If even a small amount of light interrupts the dark period, flowering can be hindered. Some greenhouse growers purposely interrupt the dark period to delay flowering in Christmas poinsettias, then, at the appropriate time, cover the plants with a dark tarp to induce flowering.

Lettuce and spinach are also short day plants. Once mature plants are exposed to just one 12 hour day, there is nothing that can stop them from “bolting” and producing flowers, even if the harvest isn’t ready.

To precisely control the duration of light, timers can be used. In a greenhouse setting, timers should be set to come on at dusk, when the intensity of sunlight is about twice that of the artificial lights. Light sensors can also be used to turn on supplemental lights on cloudy days. But since turning HID’s on and off too much can reduce their life, once the lamp comes on, it should be left on for at least an hour.

Careful regulation of artificial lighting is well worth the effort. When the color, intensity and duration of light are properly balanced and controlled, plants will be healthier, the growing season will be extended, and productivity will be increased.

SUMMARY

Let’s take a moment to summarize the most important features of various horticultural lights:

*Metal Halide lamps are strong in the blue end of the spectrum,

*producing stronger vegetative growth.

*High Pressure Sodium lamps are strong in the red end of the spectrum,

*producing stronger fruiting and flowering.

*Son Agro lamps are HPS lamps with a 30% increase in the blue end of the spectrum,

*making them an ideal “single source” lamp from seed to harvest.

*Fluorescent grow lamps also have a balanced color spectrum,

*but because of their low lumen output, they are only practical

*for growing tender seedlings and cuttings, or for “low light” plants.

*Low Pressure Sodium lamps have a very narrow color spectrum,

*but they may be used for “side lighting”.

*Light movers provide more even lighting when used with high intensity lamps.

*And timers can be used to control the duration of light and dark periods,

*allowing better control of the growing season.

When the proper combination of horticultural lighting is used, along with the right levels of carbon dioxide, nutrients, temperature and humidity, hydroponically grown plants can flourish in any grow room!

Everyone can grow a hydroponic garden

2009-07-17T12:04:00.000-04:00

If you enjoy gardening, but have limiting factors such as very little gardening space, problems with pests or unsuitable weather conditions, then hydroponics could be the answer for you. For many people, the thought of successfully gardening indoors all year around has only been a dream. However, with hydroponics this is possible.
General hydroponics is a hobby many people are picking up today. Hydroponics is simpler than what most people think, and is proven to have several advantages over regular soil gardening. The following are some of the many benefits of growing plants using hydroponics:
Less space is required, and plants can be grown closer together. Growing plants with hydroponics is possible almost anywhere.
Less water is required as there is no soil which soaks it up before it reaches your plant’s roots. Hydroponics is great in areas where there are water restrictions, as less water is lost to evaporation. When you water your regular garden plants, approximately 10% of the water actually makes it to the plants.
No pests or diseases. You don't have to worry about pest control, and because your plants are grown indoors, there are fewer problems with diseases such as mould and fungi.
Reduced maintenance time. Once your hydroponics system is set up, all you need to do is change the nutrient solution on a regular basis. This only takes a few minutes. There is no need for any weeding.

What can I grow using hydroponics?

2009-06-01T20:09:00.000-04:00

Hydroponics can be used to grow a wide variety of plants: strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce and many non-fruit or vegetable plants, such as orchids. The list is long. Thousands of species can thrive without soil, provided they're cared for properly. That effort can be fun and instructive. It can also produce beautiful ornamental or nutritious plants without many of the drawbacks of soil-grown plants.

Some of the plants best suited to the NFT form of hydroponic gardening include:

1. Cucumbers
2. Lettuce
3. Tomatoes
4. Broccoli
5. Cabbage
6. Cauliflower
7. Eggplant
8. Spinach
9. Beans
10. Strawberries

Examples of unsuitable NFT plants include roses, bulbs and most indoor plants.

Suitable plants for a Ebb/Flow system include:

1. Lettuce
2. Garlic
3. Leeks
4. Onions
5. Melons
6. Brussels Sprouts
7. Peas
8. Tomatoes
9. Radishes
10. Pineapples
11 Cucumbers
12 Artichokes

The Ebb/Flow system is also well suited for growing cuttings, and for propogating flowers like carnations and chrysanthemums. Root vegetables like carrots typically will not do as well in a gravel bed system.

Some plants that would be suitable for growing in rockwool include:

1. Lettuce
2. Onion
3. Melons
4. Cucumbers
5. Zucchini
6. Pumpkin
7. Strawberries
8. Tomatoes

As with most hydroponic gardening, root plants are not suitable for this type of system.

Capillary Fed (Wick) Systems

With a capillary fed setup the water and nutrients are drawn from an outer well using a capillary system. The outer well is topped up as required, giving the plants a steady supply of water and nutrients. This type of system can be as simple as a terracotta pot that has been filled with gravel and place in a bucket of nutrient solution.

Unlike many other hydroponic systems the capillary fed arrangement is quite well suited for many indoor houseplants. Some of the most suitable plants for this type of arrangement include:

1. Diffenbachia
2. Ficus
3. Dracaena
4. Palms
5. African violets
6. Palms

How do you start up a hydroponics system?

2009-04-24T19:32:00.000-04:00

If you start looking around the net your going to find enough information to make your head spin, and chances are you’ll be no closer to getting your garden growing…..so let’s make it simple….and easy!

First we need to decide how big a grow area we are going to use. This is important because from this we decide how big a light you will need, and since that is a large part of the expense in setting up your garden, it makes sense to start at this point

A 2' x 2' garden will use a 150-175 watt MH or HPS bulb and a 150 watt ballast like the Sun System 150 (bulb incl, HPS only) or the Sun System 4 (MH or HPS bulb sold seprerately)

A 3’ x 3’ garden would be a 250 watt bulb with a 250 watt rated ballast and the
4’ x 4’ garden will use a 400 watt MH or HPS and a 400 watt rated ballast.
You can use the Sun System 2 and choose the bulb you desire!

The systems recommended above are all enclosed ballest systems which means the ballest is built into the reflector hood. They are the least expensive way to start if you have decided on HID lighting for your garden.

The 6’ x 6 garden will use a 600 watt and a 600 watt rated ballast

The 8’ x 8’ garden will use a 1000 watt MH or HPS with a matching ballast. This is about the maximum garden size on a one (1) lamp garden

With these size gardens there are a lot of choices in bulbs, ballasts and reflectors.

Next…..what type of system do I use??
A very reasonable question with many answers….the question is, are you technical and do you want to tinker allot or do you want to work the least and get the most? This is also a product of your budget!

Low work and small budget would be best suited with a Deep Water Culture or Wick setup Inexpensive to set up, easy to maintain and it delivers great results on small plants and big plants as well. If your handy an Ebb & Flow system is fairly inexpensive, easy to build and the first fully automated system you can get into

You can get started with nothing more then a 3 or 5 gallon bucket and a basket lid, with this you will also need an aquarium pump (around $15-$20) a good sized airstone ( $3- $5) some grow cubes like Grodan® Stonewool A-Ok Starter Plugs, some grow medium like Coco Dan Croutons to pack the starter plugs and sprout into, put it all together….ad a fan….and you’re a farmer!

So get up and start growing….it’s fun and it’s rewarding!

WE'RE OPEN!!!

2009-04-17T08:17:00.000-04:00

The new Green Barn Hydroponics website is now

OPEN FOR BUSINESS

Stop by and have a look
We carry everything you will need
to design, build and grow your perfect garden

Why use Hydroponics?

2009-04-14T06:23:00.000-04:00

What are the benefits of hydroponic growing?

Cultivating plants hydroponically is an easy and environmentally sound way to grow a wide variety of healthy plants. It offers numerous benefits over growing in soil, including:
• Plants grow up to 50% faster because they have easy access to food and water.
• Plants become "vacation-proof" and "neglect-resistant" as rockwool retains water so well, you only need to water every three to six weeks.
• Plants can "tell" you when to water, because they droop before wilting and damage occurs.
• The absence of a buffer in the growing medium means plants get all the nutrients available (they don't remain "bound up" as occurs in buffered mediums like peat moss and coco fiber).
• Little or no pesticides are necessary. Plants start our in a disease-free medium.
• If disease occurs, it may only affect one plant, not a whole row.
• You use smaller containers, because the roots can grow throughout the media without being root bound.

Hydroponics Is Simple
Plants don't use soil; they use the food and water that are in the soil. Hydroponics basically is growing plants without soil because it is simply a more efficient way to provide food and water to your plants. Soil's function is to hold nutrients and anchor plants' roots. In a hydroponic garden you provide your plants' roots so they have easier access to the food and water.

In a soil garden, food and water are randomly scattered; plants have to expend a lot of energy growing roots to find them. In a hydroponic garden, the food is dissolved in the water so it goes directly to the roots. The plants will grow quicker and be ready for harvest sooner because their growth will be above the surface, not under it. Since the root systems will be compact and not competing for food and water, you may also have many more plants in a given space.

Hydroponics Is Not New
Hydroponics has existed in different forms for thousands of years. The Hanging Gardens of Babylon used hydroponic techniques. Today hydroponic installations can be found in all 50 states and many countries around the world. In fact, in colder climates, a majority of vegetable and flower crops are grown hydroponically.

More about growing Orchids with hydroponics

2009-04-10T08:37:00.000-04:00

A SIMPLIFIED METHOD OF GROWING ORCHIDS

The word hydroponics means working or moving water. This can be accomplished with a pump in a water reservoir or more supply by using an aggregate that has capillary action with a small reservoir of water.

Most orchid growers visualize orchids growing in hydroponics to be sitting in water. They believe that orchids and hydroponics do not mix. There is nothing further from the truth. Orchids need moisture, oxygen, nutrients and light. The first three of these components can be supplied to orchids growing in hydroponics in just the exact proportions that they need with more control than any other growing method.
When the orchid grower pots an orchid in most conventional growing mediums that medium is the best it is ever going to be. The medium will start to break down, decompose, with each passing day. Growing orchids in an inert fixed medium will provide that root zone with a healthier environment without the presence of decomposing matter, bacteria and mold.
Using a hydroponic growing kit with a high fired terra cotta medium is an ideal hydroponic method. The terra cotta growing medium has capillary action and will provide even and consistent moisture to the root zone. This hydropinic growing kit consists of two pots. A culture or grow pot and an outer pot to hold the nutrient solution. It also has a float devise to monitor the depth of the water in the outer pot. The culture pot is of special design. It has slits all around the lower portion of the pot with a concave bottom so that only the lower outer portion of the pot makes contact with the nutrient solution. Orchids growing in any hydroponic system must be allowed to go dry before the water is replenished. This will allow maximum oxygen to the roots.

Even orchids that need more moisture in their root zone also need oxygen. This means that an ideal hydroponic medium, must have good moisture retention and still provide oxygen. The fired clay aggregate, with its uneven circular shapes, provide air pockets between the pebbles and will not change in composition with age and use. The fired clay aggregate can be recycled. If you wish to use it again in another orchid you can sterilize it in a hot oven.
Before you place any orchid into a hydroponic growing kit be sure to remove all of the old medium and any roots that are not sound. Trimming the dead roots should be done with a sterile instrument. Place a small amount of the terra cotta medium into the bottom of the grow pot. Hold the bare root orchid in the grow pot and simply pour the medium around the roots. You can tap the grow pot on a hard surface to settle the medium down into the pot. Add additional medium if necessary. The placement of the orchid in the selected grow pot will have a lot to do with its growth pattern. Sympodial growing orchids should be placed with their oldest growth against the wall of the grow pot and monopodial orchids should be centered in the pot. Most orchids can go several years before repotting. When it is time to repot the hydroponic orchid to a larger pot this can be done without radically upsetting the plant.. If upon examination the roots look sound when it is dispotted , then you can simply hold it into a larger grow pot and fill in with additional medium. Monopodial growing orchids such as phalaenopsis usually need to be reset but not always potted on. In this case, examine the roots, removing any unsound roots and reset into the same pot or larger using the same terra cotta medium. No need to sterilize the medium unless you are using it with a different orchid.

Light, temperature and air circulation should all remain the same as conventional orchid culture. A hydroponic system with a water reservoir will add humidity around the plant. In a dry environment the evaporation rate will increase adding to the humidity around the foliage. For some orchids a defined rest period after blooming is recommended. In a hydropinic system this is easily achieved. Either replace the nutrient solution with plain water to an initially lower depth, or withhold the reservoir completely and occasionally run plain water through the medium to keep the roots from dehydrating.
Hydroponically grown orchids have less frequency of infestation due to the fact that you avoid the too wet too dry syndrome. A healthier plant means less problems with infestations. If you should need to chemically treat a hydroponic orchid for an infestation use all precautions suggested by the manufacturer; such as; avoiding direct sunlight, always apply where you have good ventilation and in most cases rinse through the roots with plain water to remove any chemical residue. Some systemic chemicals can and should remain in the roots after application. In this case do not leach. If it is a soap based application always leach thoroughly to flush the soap from the roots.
Try an orchid in hydroculture and experience the ease of growing. You will grow a healthier orchid, that lives longer, producing beautiful foliage and an abundance of blooms.

Ann Lerman

Growing Orchids with hydroponics

2009-04-09T21:29:00.000-04:00

Here are some of the benefits I have found growing hydroponic orchids:
Ease of use

With hydroponic orchids, the plant is placed in a special pot and is surrounded by aggregates. More on types of aggregates at a later time. The aggregates will not only hold water but also can trap air. They also allow for more freer air movement. After transplanting a plant into a hydroponic system there is nothing to do except add nutrient ladened water. Yes, that's it, water as needed according to the system you use and watch your orchid plants grow.

Taking The Guesswork Out Of Watering

I think the neatest part comes with knowing when to water and taking the guess work out of it. With growing hydroponic orchids there is no more wondering.. . Is this orchid dry enough to need water or am I giving it too much water. What are the leaves telling me? The guess work is gone because the system you use allows you to know when to water or will water on a schedule you choose.. You could even go on vacation and not worry about how the neighbor or your mother will do with watering your orchids. Will they be alive when you get back?

No Soil - Less Chance For Disease

Because there is no soil being used and the aggregates are inert there is much less of a chance for the orchids to get disease. You do not have to worry about root rot and other diseases. So growing hydroponic orchids is the best world.
It's The Nutrients That Make The Difference The nutrients used are the same as are usually obtained from the soil. They usually will come with the system that is purchased but may be but in any store that deals with hydroponics. The nutrients may be a bit more expensive then traditional fertilizers. You can get them either as organic or chemical nutrients.

Substitutes for Media

There are different medium that can be used in growing hydroponic orchids. There are LECA, Allflour, and Lava Rock amongst the most common.
LECA - (lecation) - which is a clay aggregate made into pellets. The clay is heated to 2000 degrees F and develops a hard shell with tiny air sacs. It provides for air circulation due to there round size and can trap water.
Lava Rock - it is a natural product dug out of the ground and used as is. These are porous on the surface and can trap excess fertilizer.
Allflour - is made similar to the lecation rock but is not heated to the same high temperature. This makes the aggregate much weaker and can get crushed easily

Easy To Start

I have been using this on several of my orchids and have been impressed so far with the results. During the first month I used the "rooting" nutrients every 2-3 days. I filled the planter with the rooting nutrients and let the plant stand in it for about 1 minute, then emptied the nutrients back into the bottle for re-use. After the first month I then used the system with its watering indicator with "blooming" nutrients. It is so nice to use an indicator to know when to water.

Look At The Growth!

You will notice that your hydroponically grown orchids will grow faster and better. Usually there is between 30 - 50% faster growth. This is because the water used has nutrients that the plants love. The nutrients really enhance the growth of the orchids. You will see the blooms which can be larger and last longer. As you can see with a system like these require a whole lot less maintenance for the orchids. It is a self contained system that is very easy to use. You will be surprised that growing hydroponic orchids is allot easier then you think!!

Just a quick update

2009-04-08T11:53:00.000-04:00

We have been real busy stocking the shelves here at Green Barn Hydroponics with everything your going to need to be a success at your indoor gardening. We are adding a huge lighting section as well as a wide variety of grow systems, grow media and of course every nutrient you can ever need. I seem to be forgetting something....what was it....oh yea, SEEDS! We stock a wide variety of seeds to get you started. Some kits even come with starter seeds! Take a look, if you don't see what your looking for just ask, I probably just haven't put it on the shelf yet!!

The store will be open soon for your shopping pleasure, watch here for updates.

Bookmark us and come back often so we can all grow together! It's really time for us to actualize on the change we are embracing as a nation. Each and everyone of us should become as self-sufficient as possible. Growing your own vegetables and herbs is a great way to start, and the best part is it can be done in a corner of your house. You don't need a farm to "work the land" it's time to "work nature". Land is scarce in the city but why let that stop you from growing your own plants and feeling connected again to the earth. Start a co-op in your neighborhood....grow with friends, barter with neighbors. It's a hobby as well as a way to reduce your overall costs of food for your table and have the pride of saying "yea, I grew it myself".

Well back to work, you know, no rest for the weary!

What system works best for which plants?

2009-04-06T15:52:00.000-04:00

Choosing the right growing system for you should fit the needs of the plants you are growing as well as the space your growing them in, the lighting you use and your budget . Below are some different types of hydroponics gardens. If you are a new grower, we suggest starting off with an all in one kit featured at Green Barn Hydroponics . Choose the garden type you want to try, what you would like to grow and they make sure you have everything that you'll need for a successful harvest.

Deep water culture
Ideal for small to medium sized plants. This method of hydroponics will suspend plant roots in a nutrient rich solution. The water is kept oxygenated by reticulating through a reservoir for several plants. Deep water culture allows plant roots to absorb large quantities of oxygen while also allowing the uptake of nutrients. Depending on your gardening needs, look for a garden that can maintain the plants you wish to grow. Deep water culture can still work well with larger sized plants, but make sure to space them appropriately and not mix plant varieties together that will not grow well together.

Plants that work best with this type of garden are Herbs, small flowers and lettuce.

Nutrient Film Technique
Ideal for medium or large sized plants. Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) involves a thin layer or film of nutrient solution flowing over the roots of the plants. All of the plants nutrient needs are met through the air and water solution washed through the plants root system. For larger sized plants (i.e. tomatoes) make sure plants are spread out in gardens so that they can receive all necessary nutrients. Can be mixed with a deep water culture technique to get the best of both.

Plants that work best with this type of garden are Herbs, tomatoes, African violets, romaine lettuce, mustard greens, vegetative plants, kale, and oriental vegetables.
Hydro Harvest Buy Now: Hydro Harvest

Expandable drip system
Designed for large plants. Probably the most widely used form of hydroponics, uses an approach similar to deep water culture method and is self contained. Very simple to assemble and use. It works by placing plants in growing medium suspended by baskets. Water is then pumped or some sort of grow tray. Water and nutrient solution is then dripped through the growing medium from a reservoir for plants to intake nutrients though their roots. The constant water flow allows oxygen to be easily accessible for plants. Often, gardens will be set up to recycle any run off water back into the reservoir to be re-circulated to the plant again.
Plants that work work well with this type of garden are Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, Aloe, Pineapple, tropical plants

Ebb & Flow system
This type of system works by temporarily flooding the grow tray with nutrient solution, and then draining the solution back into the reservoir. This is normally done with a submerged pump (please see pump section for information on which pump would work best for you). There are many different kits you can mix and match to build the right garden kit for your plants using this style. It is very versatile with different types of growing media. Visit our information on growing mediums to decide which one would best work for your plants.

Propagation
This type of system is made for cuttings taken from already grown healthy plants. Water is pumped through sprayers and misters to ensure newly formed roots on cuttings are properly nourished. Make sure to use a system that still allows enough oxygen to get to your plants roots as this is essential for early root development. Proper nutrient selection is recommended to promote strong healthy roots on each cutting. Once plants have developed strong enough roots, they must be transplanted into a different type of growing system so that roots will not clog the pump. Ideal for any type of plant in which cuttings can be taken.

Sprout Garden
This type of garden kit is ideal for sprouts or wheat grass. In less than a week seeds will root into a thin growing medium and sprouts can be harvested as they are ready to eat. The technique is similar to regular gardening where plants are watered regularly as needed. But no pumps or other hydroponics techniques are required.

What about Orchids?

2009-03-25T09:31:00.000-04:00

Most popular orchids will more or less thrive in hydroponic culture: Paphiopedilum, Phragmipedium, Masdevallia, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Oncidium, Dendrobiums, Epidendrums, Miltoniopsis, Pleurothallid and Zygopetalum. Exceptions would be very big or "thirsty" plants or those whose roots must sometimes completely dry and even those that require dry rest like Dendrobium nobile

What Grows?

2009-03-25T09:27:00.001-04:00

Plant physiology researchers discovered in the 19th century that plants absorb essential mineral nutrients as inorganic ions in water. In natural conditions, soil acts as a mineral nutrient reservoir but the soil itself is not essential to plant growth. When the mineral nutrients in the soil dissolve in water, plant roots are able to absorb them. When the required mineral nutrients are introduced into a plant's water supply artificially, soil is no longer required for the plant to thrive. Almost any terrestrial plant will grow with hydroponics.